First of all I should point out that this was my second trip across the C2C. I think it may be useful for anyone planning the route as a first timer to be aware of the training I did this time round.

Training differed, in that last time around I mixed jogging 4 miles most nights with one long (10 - 15 mile) walk a week. This proved helpful for fitness, but I feel caused me a problem with Shinsplints later in the C2C. As a result I changed the training and did no jogging at all. I walked almost everyday. Mostly for 2 hours solid often covering a good 8 miles. Once a week I did a longer walk with my full intended kit, of about 15miles. Result - No shinsplints and reasonably comfortable on all the distances. 

I was joined by a colleague from work Scott, for the whole trip and a long time pal Craig who could only do the Lakes section. We are all 40 and reasonably fit, though Scott and Craig are fairly novice walkers (their sporting prowess lies elsewhere). Me - I go under the pseudonym of Countryfile on the Sherpa chat site - but friends call me Ian.

 

Wednesday 3rd May 2006
St. Bees to Ennerdale Bridge

We set off from home by car, as we all live in Lancashire only a couple of Hrs from the start. We made a late start out of St. Bees at 11.15 am and after collecting a pebble and dipping the toes made our way across the Head in very strong winds. We spent time observing the sea birds and the binoculars picked out an abundance of Puffins. The walk along the cliffs seemed a lot futher than I recalled but we made good time down towards Stanley pond where we took lunch. There was some boggy ground negotiated just after this but we continued with no major navigational problems up and over Dent which proved to be extremely windy. On the way down we were concerned for the trees in the wooded area as they were creeking loudly and several had obviously already fallen due to the conditions.

We were all quite tired once in the valley below but enjoyed the beautiful scenery along through the Nannycatch gate area. We decamped into the Fox and Hounds at Ennerdale Bridge, where after a quick pint we were directed to dine at the Farmers Arms because the Fox and Hounds had not had a delivery of gas. We were fortunate to meet up with several other C2Cers including 77 yr old Richard 'sully' Sulivan from Brooklyn, New York who was going solo and an inspiration to us all.

 

Thursday 4th May 2006
Ennerdale Bridge to Rosthwaite

We looked out of the window at the spots of rain and donned our wet weather gear in preparation. The walking gods were clearly on our side today though because as we stepped out of the door the skies cleared and left constant sunshine throughout the entire day. Once more strong winds prevailed and today (as for most of the trip) it was in our faces - and Wainwright advised the prevailing wind was from the West! 

We stopped at Blacksail Hut for a spot of lunch. Unfortunately the Post Office/shop at Ennerdale had been closed and we hadn't been able to stock up (we were advised that family issues mean that the Post Office is rarely open these days). We got by on the remnants of yesterdays food being a few flapjack bars and some rather delicious Jaffa Cakes. Craig also brewed up in the hut which provides an honesty box for weary travellers in need of a caffeine fix.

The pull out over to Honister pass was short but steep, views from the top were a little hazy and by this time I was developing a 'beetroot face' due to the sun, wind and exercise. We scoffed a few boiled sweets to keep us going then descended to the cafe/slate factory where we took another brew (again with honesty box) and met for the first time 'gentleman' Geoff (70yrs) from Cambridge who was going solo and had pretty much the same schedule as us.

The walk down into Rosthwaite was pleasant enough despite aching knees (I hate downhill) and we soon discovered our digs for the evening at Nook Farm. On the approach Craig made my day with the quote of the trip after seeing the farmer leading a cow into the barn " OH LOOK HE'S TAKING THAT COW IN FOR MY BACON IN THE MORNING". We didn't give him much ribbing over that one!. We ate at The Scafell Hotel and left there as lightening strikes illuminated the fells to the West - a fantastic sight. Thunder rumbled on through the early part of the night, but sleep came easily.

 

Friday 5th May 2006
Rosthwaite to Patterdale.

Having posted off a couple of cards to the family and stocked up on Vitals at the local store we headed out of Rosthwaite and up the valley towards Greenup.

This climb has a few false tops and is a good test of legs and lungs. Once on the top, myself and Craig managed to get a signal on the mobile and called a chum who was celebrating his 40th Birthday today - we serenaded him from the top with a very poor rendition of "Happy Birthday". 

The navigation on the top here can be tricky for the uninitiated and we had to laugh at the sight that came across to greet us, It was 77yr old "Sully" who had obviously had an encounter with a bit of boggy territory because he had staining up to his knees declaring (in his very strong American twang) "GEES WHAT SCREW UP".

We helpfully set him back off on the correct direction whilst we took a slight detour down to Steel End via Wythe Burn. Another steep climb up to Grisedale tarn where we took a good rest at 'The Brothers Parting Stone'.

The walk down to Patterdale was hard on the feet as I had now developed a small blister on the Right heel. It was another long Hot day and Craig was feeling the distance by now so I lied to him about 2 miles out, saying it was only another mile - he took umberance after he realised it was the longest mile in England!

We booked into Grisdale lodge and after a rest and shower decamped to The White Lion for a pint and  food (it was very busy).

 

Saturday 6th May 2006
Patterdale to Shap.

I had forgotten how hard this leg was !! We set off in fine style out of Patterdale and observed a rare Red Squirrel hopping along the wall before we set off up to Boredale Hause. The retrospective views of Patterdale and its surrounds are really spectacular. Although it is never terribly steep The climb up to Kidsty does take a good long haul, but the weather was set fair again and the legs felt great. We were fortunate enough to spot 2 separate deer herds on the fells to the East. Kidsty was not a place to linger long as the wind had got up and a real chill was in the air, so we descended. This descent is hellish steep and not good for aching knees. Once by the Reservoir we took a good rest, leapfrogging 'Gentleman' Geoff most of the day (not literally - because that would make hard work of it!).

At the end of Haweswater I took to wearing my training shoes for the first time to give the feet a rest. I had warned the chaps that this was a long stretch in and not to feel the day was over at the end of Haweswater (6 miles is still a good distance to travel). Craig was dead beat by the end of the day, and we were all chuffed to get into Shap and our digs at The Greyhound. We were met by Scott's wife who provided him with fresh kit (the cheat!) and we later had a pint with Geoff and 'Sully'. This is a hard days walk and shouldn't be underestimated by novices after the last 3 days.

 

Sunday 7th May 2006
Shap to Kirkby Stephen.

There was a bit of drizzle in the air as we headed out of Shap and over the M6 into Limestone country. Soon enough the dampness cleared but it was a very cloudy/misty day. Craig had left us now, Scott and I made good headway now that the ground ahead was flatter. It was very much a head down and get on with it day as the views were pretty non-existent due to the murky weather. The highlight for me was towards the end of the day with the gorgeous valley around Smardale Gill and the views of the Viaduct. A couple of miles from Kirkby the clouds decided to drop their contents and we endured a little dampness in the company of 'Sully' whom we caught up around that time. The feet were aching a tad but we were both in great form as we were greeted into one of the better B&Bs on the journey The Jolly Farmers. We dined at The Black Bull once again regaling tales over a pint with Geoff and Sully.

 

Monday 8th May 2006
Kirkby Stephen to Keld.

I paid a quick visit to the Chemist to grab another pack of compede blister plasters because I had just used another on my right heel which now sported two of these little trophies. The weather again was set fair (we couldn't believe we had walked the entire Lake district and beyond and only had about an hours rain!). What a pleasant walk out towards Nine standards. We had dropped the pace because we knew we had a short leg today ( the distance - not physically!). The walk up to nine standards was non too taxing however the wind on top was extremely strong and dead in the face, so we didn't linger long. We managed to round/hurdle/skip and jump the boggy ground on the way down whilst being buzzed by Her Majestys RAF fighter planes. Scott very nearly stood on a grouse before it decided to scoot away. Whitsundaydale was very pleasant, and after the triumph of reaching halfway we celebrated with an Ice cream in Keld. We were then fortunate enough to blag  lift from a couple of tourists to take us to our digs at Muker tea rooms, where we decided to refuse the kind offer of tea (most pleasantly) in favour of a pint of Old Peculiar next door at The Farmers Arms. After supper I was diverted by the sound of a brass band playing in the village hall, and sat listening on a bench by the river for a short while as they rehearsed.

 

Tuesday 9th May 2006
Keld to Reeth.

Muker is an astonishing village (much like Keld) If you had arrived here 50 yrs ago I would say that nothing would be different - fantastic! 

We grabbed the bus back up to Keld. We were the only two people on it and we both commented on how pleasant it must be to be the driver meandering about the dales all day (somewhat different to the job of an inner city bus driver I'll warrant!). 

This leg was new to me as bad weather forced us down the road route last time. I really enjoyed the climb out of Keld to the Moors. The old Mining ruins are fascinating and one wonders what hardships the occupants endured in times past? The climb out onto the second moor was not clearly pathed and so we busked it a bit - but it wasn't a problem. The devastation hereabouts is very evident - but nature is claiming it back.

Once again it was very hot, very sunny and very windy AGAINST! and so Reeth was welcome respite. We were booked into the Black Bull on the Green and after a pint shown to our room up the most rickety stairway known to man! This was the biggest test yet of the trip - Could we make it up the stairs to the room!?

We dined at The Buck (Roebuck) along with 'Gentleman' Geoff, Three lads from Sheffield whom we encountered yesterday and the (now) legendary 'Sully'.

It was this night that I realised Sully only ever drunk lager because (American twang) "IT SLAKES THE THIRST". So I had a bit of a debate about chemically produced beverages and home grown, crafted real ale. He capitulated and we supped a couple of Old Peculiar in triumph and recognition of "whatever".

 

Wednesday 10th May 2006
Reeth to Brompton on Swale

A very hot and sultry day! We fair marched out of Reeth and into green Dales country. At Marrick you could taste the wild garlic in the air. A short encounter with a bull was a little unnerving but we fair trotted into Richmond and people - civilisation! Most stop off here - but after last times experience I wanted to knock off another few miles from the trip tomorrow. So we partook in a sandwich and Ice-cream in the square. Then we observed the forlorn figure of sully entering one of the public houses in the square and so joined him for the final farewell (as we knew our itineries differed). I again chastised him for ordering a pint of lager!

Scott and I continued along the banks of the Swale, into a small wood where we disturbed a young deer that spirited past us not 10 yards away!

We continued on and up to Catterick bridge where we stopped at The Tudoe Hotel in Brompton. Now if Carling did Hotels then this would probably be "The worst Hotel in the World". It was pretty poor and certainly the worst standard provided on the trip by far. However we did watch the UEFA cup final and the Boro get thrashed 4-0, ( so not such a bad night after all!) - only joking Boro fans.

 

Thursday 11th May 2006
Brompton to Osmotherly

Another VERY hot day and it was tough on the feet with so much road walking - I took to my training shoes early on. The sound of aircraft out of RAF Leeming? was never far away for much of the day. My highlight was watching a 'Diver' in one of the streams with a very young brood obviously perturbed by our intrusion into its life. We trudged into Danby Wiske anticipating a pub lunch only to find the White Swan closed till late evening. However, Ashfield house provided respite and sustenance. On the long trudge into Osmotherly and arrival at Vane House, I found that my left ankle had swollen unexpectedly - but there was no pain?. It is something that really worried me at the time, however disappeared after the next day and never bothered me?

We dined at The Queen Catherine.

 

Friday 12th May 2006
Osmotherly to Blakey Ridge

Another glorious sunny start, we made good progress out of Osmotherly up into the Cleveland Hills. we watched a helicopter manoeuvring about the valley below our vantage point. We stopped at Lordstones cafe for Coffee and a Current square and got a lecture off the owner about his anger over being omitted from OS Maps.

Then the clouds blackened and as we headed for the Wainstones we donned our wet weather gear expecting a thorough soaking. As we reached the stones Thunder and lightening struck the valleys to the South and ahead of us. We hurried a bit over the stones not wishing to be the highest point during a lightening storm BUT....

To our utter amazement the storm never came - it just sounded off all round us and not a drop landed on us (I still don't know what I've done to deserve that one?)

We arrived at The Lion Inn very tired, and after a late change in accommodation had to ring up for our lift.

We were collected by the delightful Mrs Sugars who transported us to our accommodation at Sevenford House Rosedale Abbey. She explained on route that she was sorry that we would have to be accommodated in the annex, we explained that we didn't mind as long as we had a good bed for the night. On arrival we were shown to "the annex" - a 3 bedroom house with lovely views, set in 4 acres, we had a bedroom to ourselves, a bath, beds the size of Wales, truly Nirvana!

A stroll down to The White Farm Inn for a lovely meal, then watching a terrific thunder storm during which hail pelted the landscape whilst sat in front of a roaring log fire with a pint of real ale... well.

 

Saturday 13th May 2006
Blakey Ridge to Egton Bridge

Well I guess our luck had to break! A real pea souper with rain. The walk was pretty dismal as we couldn't ever get a view beyond about a hundred yard and it was wet. But we couldn't complain after the trip so far, and it was a really short leg. So head down and cover the distance. We trooped into Glaisdale and had soup and a sarnie in the pub (don't recall the name) and pondered on spending the afternoon getting thoroughly drunk watching the FA Cup?. However we decided to march on through the woods to Egton Bridge by which time the air had cleared and we shacked up at The Postgate Inn. 16.5 miles to go and we cant believe its nearly over.

 

Left Egton Bridge via the toll road and we soon made Grosmont. The climb out was steeper than I recalled, but I was treated to something I missed last time (due to mist) our first view of the North Sea. We had a small vocal celebration. The route into Littlebeck was easy and through the woods very Muddy. Scott made my day when Fording the stream by falling full length into it (not a good idea to walk the last ten miles soaking wet!). Then the last trip over the moors was quite difficult to navigate and particularly boggy - but I didn't mind damp legs when we were so close. We finished with the tide right up to the slade and as I cast my pebble into the sea - the heavens opened and it started to rain (Thanks walking Gods for looking after us). I shook the hand of Scotty and of 'Gentleman' Geoff - who had arrived about 15 mins before us.

Memories, company, new friends.................................

If you haven't done it yet

WHY NOT?